Mineral MakeUp Uncovered !

The look of the season: Natural, glowing, glistening skin – with nary a flaw the eye can see.

How do you get it? Well you could jump in your backyard time capsule and dial in 1975. Or....you could try mineral make-up!

Indeed, among the strongest trends going forward in Summer 08 beauty are highly purified loose mineral powders formulated into foundations, blushes and eye shadows and available in a dazzling array of colors.

Among their biggest draw - highly dense pigments that some say offer better coverage than traditional foundations while feeling lighter - not to mention being kinder and gentler to your skin.

"Because the base of mineral makeup is titanium dioxide and zinc oxide which have natural anti- inflammatory properties, it can have a calming effect on the skin and for many people it won't aggravate conditions like acne or rosacea," says Dr. Kathryn Frew, a dermatologist at Juva MediSpa in Manhattan.

These same two minerals are also natural sunscreens , so most mineral make-up has an SPF of 15 – or higher. Bare Minerals, which some credit as the pioneer of mineral make-up, even carries a seal of approval from the Skin Cancer Foundation.

At the same time, however, it's important to point out that not all mineral makeups are alike.
First, some can be very drying to over-40 skin, and it can accentuate some fine lines and wrinkles.

But perhaps more important, while virtually all the brands claim the benefits of natural good-for-your-skin ingredients, a little under cover make-up investigation has revealed this isn't exactly the whole truth.

Not All Mineral MakeUp Is Alike!

First developed in the mid 1970's, the original intent of mineral makeup was to do away with the otherwise irritating fragrances, dyes and preservatives found in traditional cosmetics.
Today, however, it seems not all companies play by these unspoken rules.

In fact, since there are essentially no regulations governing what constitutes a " mineral makeup", manufacturers actually have license to cheat. And many of them do.

"Some mineral products contain less of these irritating ingredients than traditional makeup but some can contain as much or more, so don't rely solely on the term 'mineral' - you really have to read the entire label to see what you are getting," says Frew.

Tips offs include ingredients such as methylparaben and propylparaben, preservatives that are not natural, and some say are linked to health concerns.

But even amongst those that offer all- mineral formulas, there's another dividing line: Products that contain the ingredient "bismuth oxychloride" and those that don't.

While it sounds like a mineral, technically it's the result of processing lead and copper and mixing it with a byproduct of chlorine. Some companies use it as a filler or to give products a pearlized glow and a nice anti-aging effect.

But purists like Kristen Adams, president of Afterglow Mineral Make-up, says looking young and dewy has its price.

"We don't use bismuth oxychloride because many women are allergic to it and either break out and/or itch - plus we prefer the more semi-matte look of the non-bismuth formula," says Adams.

Frew says when used in significant quantities bismuth oxychloride can irritate acne and rosacea, so if you have these problems try to avoid it, or check to see how far down on the ingredient label it is – lower is better.

In attempts to capture our attention and dazzle us with science, some mineral make-ups are also touting "extras". Jane Iredale includes the anti-aging antioxidant protection of pomegranate, pine bark and algae extract, while TRUE offers the pricey anti aging ingredient idebenone. Drugstore line IsaDora tempts us with the decadence of real crushed amethyst, citrine and aquamarine, said to improve microcirculation and offer other skin-health benefits.

But do the extras really matter?

Experts say they might offer some surface benefits – but since make-up is designed to sit on the skin, and not penetrate it, don't buy it for the extras alone.

Says Frew: "Find the product that looks best on your skin and is the easiest to apply."

To learn how the 5 leading brands of mineral make up stack up - and what each has to offer, click here.

You might also enjoy reading 23 Ways To Prevent Wrinkles (click here) or "More Hope In a Jar: The Anti Aging Ingredients That Work (click here).

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