Beauty Buyer Beware: Avoid Anti Aging Skin Care Scams

Open any beauty or fashion magazine and it's hard to miss the ads:

“… a 92% reduction in wrinkles "
" ...clinically proven to firm skin "
“ ...dramatically reduces wrinkles in 7 days "

" ...cellulite gone in 1 application."

And if you're like most of us, it's also hard not to believe them - what with all the numbers and the percent signs and the science-y sounding names and terms.

And yet, talk to almost any dermatologist or plastic surgeon and you're likely to hear that all but a few ingredients have even the potential to do what they say.

“Many of these products are claiming changes in the skin that, if they were true, would automatically classify them as drugs requiring FDA approval - and clearly they are not drugs,” says NYU professor and dermatologist Rhoda Narins, MD.

So, says Narins, it's reasonable to assume that many won't deliver what they promise.

And in fact, this was exactly what the magazine Consumer Reports found last year, when they put a number of popular anti-aging treatments to the test. Their analysis showed that a good deal of the anti aging products make huge promises, simply don't live up to their claims.

So, how do these companies come up with all these "test results" touted in the ads?

Well you may be surprised to hear that for the most part, experts say the results in the ads are truthful. But, what they frequently don't tell us is how the testing was conducted - a factor that can make a huge difference in the validity of the results.

" We don't know, for example the parameters under which the testing was done, how the participants skin looked before it started, what the results compared to, if there was any scientific validation of the effect – and all of this makes a huge difference when interpreting statistical data," says Bruce Katz, MD, professor of dermatology at the Mt. Sinai School of Medicine in New York City.

Katz adds that many studies derive their results simply by asking participants "Does your skin look better? ". And that, he says, has " an enormous potential for the placebo effect."

But even if test results are validated by the Research and Development team of the company, experts say you still can't be sure of unbiased results.

"While some in-house testing is very valid, not all companies use the same standards," says David E. Goldberg, MD, director of Skin Laser and Surgery Specialists of New York and New Jersey.

A much better validation, he says, is independant testing by an "off-campus" physician or hospital, followed by publication in a peer reviewed medical journal.

This, says Goldberg at least validates that the testing followed accepted protocol, and that the results were unbiased.

Also important to note: Sometimes a product itself may not have been clinically tested, but a key ingredient has. While it's considered "fudging" a bit to stake a claim for results that didn't actually involve your product, in many instances, the science behind the ingredient is so strong it lends a degree of validation to any product that includes it.

But, there's a catch! "What's key here is making certain that the product actually contains enough of that active, tested ingredient to make the claim and to make a difference," says Katz.

Cosmetic Shopping Tips: Buyer Beware!

Clearly, there is no over-the-counter cosmetic that is going to yield the kind of results you get from plastic surgery or a dermatologic treatment - no matter good the testing or how accurate the ads.

That said, there are some companies - and some product ingredients - that do have an impressive scientific pedigree. And they can live up to at least some, if not all of their promises.

So, how do you find the flowers amongst the weeds? The experts say keep the following points in mind:

1. Purchase skin care and anti aging products only from reputable companies. The more established a skin care line is, the more likely it is they have the money to spend on independent testing, so there is likely to be at least some good science behind their products. Good companies to seek out include Avon, Garnier Nutritioniste, Olay, Neutrogena, Clinique and Prescriptives. Each features specific anti aging products with at least some proven results.

2. Look for products containing ingredients such as retinol, peptides or antioxidants. Currently these are among the hottest skin care ingredients and do have some science to back them up.

3. Check ingredient labels. A practice known as "angel dusting" means some companies include just enough of a key ingredient to list it on the label but not enough to have any significant effect on your skin. Generally, key ingredients should be among the first several listed on the label. If it's on or near the bottom, don't buy it.

4. If you're not sure about some of the key ingredients mentioned in an ad, check the company's website for information about research and testing - and note if any study results are published in a medical journal. Also important: Look for the lead author of the study to be an independant physician, or that the research was conducted at a medical center or university.

5. If a product is only available online - and isn't carried by your local pharmacy, a department store or a cosmetic superstore - think twice before you buy it. Sometimes exciting new products show up Online first. But other times it can be a hotbed of commerce for off-label products that are untested or even dangerous, or not meant to be used by consumers. Again, let published clinical studies be your guide.

One final note of caution: If you're looking to save a few bucks by purchasing name-brand cosmetics on an auction site, be certain to buy only from reputable merchants - particularly those that are US based and with a long history of favorable transactions. While it may seem like you've netted the bargain of a century when a 60 dollar cream is yours for only 24 bucks -remember, if they can counterfeit a Rolex watch, they can counterfeit a jar of cream!

For more help in in finding the anti aging ingredients and products that really work visit:

RedDressDiary.com - The Destination for Fabulous Women Over 40!

Or visit YourMenopause.com: The Source.