Hope Or Hype: Can You Really Look Younger?

As the quest to look as young as we feel continues, the sale of anti-aging cosmetics hits an all time high.

Indeed one of the more significant "look-good, feel-good" trends to come along since white lipstick and peacock blue eyeshadow involves infusing anti-aging skin care ingredients into traditional make-up products, for short term glamor with long term anti-aging benefits.

But as good as these combo products sound, is it really hope – or hype – in a compact? The answer, it seems, depends a lot on what you want, need and expect from the contents of your make up bag.

Anti Aging Cosmetics: Hope or Hype?

While experts say it is indeed possible to upload cosmetics with anti-aging skin care properties, plastic surgeon Dr. Ken Beer, director of Palm Beach Esthetics, says doing so may not be as good of an idea as it sounds.

"There is always room to add ingredients in significant amounts- the real issue is whether or not the ingredients penetrate and if so, what they do once they get there," says Beer, author of the book Palm Beach Perfect Skin.

Because most of the molecules that make up cosmetic products are too large to penetrate the dermis (one reason that products like foundation sit on top of your skin) Beer says it’s doubtful the anti-aging ingredient included in the formula is going to get where it needs to go.

Moreover, if it does, some experts worry that activity comes with a price.

“It is very difficult to deliver [into the skin] the good without including the bad - one reason why some of the anti-aging products are so irritating to skin," says dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, past president of the American Society for Cosmetic Dermatology and Aesthetic Surgery.

Indeed, when products designed to sit on the skin are blended with ingredients that must sink into the skin , Schlessinger says a variety of problems can erupt, including acne, rosacea and various forms of dermatitis.

When Skin Care and Make Up Collide

Of even greater concern is that most of these cosmetic/skin care combos don’t contain enough ant-aging ingredients to make a significant long term difference. So, depending on what you're trying to accomplish, it's likely you'll need to use additional anti-aging skin care products anyway.

But if you’re thinking more is better, guess again. Combine the wrong anti-aging ingredients and your skin could pay the price.

On the Not-So-Bad end of the scale, the anti-aging ingredients in your make up could simply cancel out the ones in your skin care, leaving you with no benefits at all.

On the “Oh-No” end of the scale, dermatologist Dr. Sumayah Jamahl says the ingredients could interact in a way that will make your skin scream for mercy.

“This, for example, could occur if your anti aging skin care product contained Retinol and your anti aging make-up contained an alpha hydroxy acid – or even higher concentrations of Retinol.,” says Jamahl, a dermatologist at the NYU-Langone Medical Center in New York City.

Separately, she says either one can be fine for the skin. But toss them on your face at the same time and you could end up with a nasty irritation that replaces those teenage acne years as your worst skin memory.

"Ingredient formulation is a precise science that requires expertise and understanding of ingredient solubility as well as ingredient delivery to the skin, " says Jamal.

Moreover, Schlessinger says that in general, the more ingredients a cosmetic has, the more likely your skin is to react in a negative way, including increasing your risk of allergic reaction.

Now if you’re thinking you can solve this dilemma by using only anti-aging cosmetics and no other skin care, guess again. Experts agree that you’re not likely to get enough benefits from the cosmetics alone to see any significant difference in your skin.

"Trying to put a lot of different ingredients into a single product usually produces sub-optimal results – in general, you are far better off using higher concentrations of individual skin care products on their own, and then find a make-up that compliments your skin type, tone and coloring,” says Beer.

The one area where you can feel good about combining skin care with makeup is in using cosmetics that contain sunscreen – one of your best anti aging secret weapons. While Schlessinger says most make up with sunscreen doesn't offer enough protection to rely on it solely , it can add an extra layer of protection that is beneficial.

What can also help: Sticking to make-up products that contain moisturizers, so they won't go into lines and wrinkles.

Click here for more advice on selecting make-up products for over 40 skin.

Click here for "OVER 40 " tips from Hollywood Make Up Guru Michael Maron.

Or visit RedDressDiary.com - The Source for Fabulous Women Over 40!